How can you tell the difference between a good shirt and an average shirt?

 Well-made shirts are more difficult to make and last longer. Cheap, mass-produced shirts are often only worn a few times and are visually of poor quality. 

That's why it pays to invest in quality clothing. Fortunately, quality is hard to fake, and if you skimp on the quality of a shirt, it is easy to see. The best place to start is to know what to look for. Below is a list of the most important elements of a top quality shirt.  Mens Dress Shirts

Learn more about quality shirts

A snug fit.

The first and most important part of a quality shirt is a good fit. It doesn't cost much to make a large shirt that fits everyone, but not well. Make sure there is a seam or grommet in the back to fit your back. Well-fitting shoulders and armholes carry expertise perfectly and have a big impact on how the shirt hangs on your body. No matter how good the stitching or fabric is, if the shirt doesn't fit well, you simply won't like it.

 Fitted shirts

High quality collar

A collar consists of three pieces of fabric sandwiched between the main body: the top collar, the bottom collar and the collar. The lining is actually another layer of fabric with a similar fibre composition. The lining gives the collar rigidity and "elasticity", which keeps it straight and gives it a rigid, curved appearance. The stiffness and tensile strength of the collar can be modified by changing the lining. 

The lining can also be cut diagonally to wrap neatly around the top edge of the collar. Just as good suits are not ironed, neither are the best shirts in the world. The reason for this is the longevity of the shirt. Even the best ironed shirts lose their ironing glue after several washes and bubbles. The rolled and folded parts of the collar are the most worn. If the lining is stiff, it cannot be sewn into the collar, which gives the same look, but is difficult to sew and requires an experienced tailor. Welded collars require only a hot iron and steam and a little skill, so they are often used. The most expensive shirt collars have a nice "roll" at the top. These rolled edges are not ironed, and the bottom of the collar is slightly curved and soft, unlike the stiff ends of collars.

Fine seams

The quality of the seams on the outside of the shirt is obvious. Try the shirt inside out. It should look just as good. Loose threads, no chain stitches, good stitch tension and high stitches per inch; higher stitches per inch will not only make the shirt last longer, as the stitches cannot catch on sharp objects and break. 

It also results in cleaner lines and stronger seams. The fineness of the stitches in relation to the seam edge is also taken into account. For quality shirts, 1/16 of an inch of the seam should be standard, with no skipped stitches or wavy lines. Today, seamstresses have controls on their sewing machines that allow them to sew to very fine tolerances, but due to the increasing speed of sewing for mass production, this level of quality is rare.

Flat seams.

Many shirts omit this important element. However, for men's shirts, the flat field seam is the most important. Flat seaming is a stitching technique where the edges of the fabric are tucked into the seam. It gives a clean and sophisticated look, both inside and out. Three stitches are required to sew this seam, which is a test of the tailor's talent: the three stitches and the hidden seam allow for a very strong seam. Because of the extra work required to produce this seam, many shirts today take a shortcut. With the overlock method, the seam touches the skin and the seam is not as strong. Flat seams with chainstitching are also common. This type of seam is good for the factory, but bad for the customer. Chain stitch produces a thicker seam than single needle lockstitch.

Fine cotton fabrics

This subject has been covered extensively in other articles, so I will not go into it here. In this case, it is important that the thread is fine and the fabric thick. Cheap shirts are often thin fabrics made from coarse, junk-like cotton.

 The fabric is the most expensive part of the shirt and the part that is sacrificed the most, as it is the easiest for the manufacturer to save money on. To minimise wrinkles and prolong the life of the garment, a balance should be struck between a fine weave and a medium thickness of fabric. Also, being purists, we have moved away from fabrics with stretch over the years. But 2% spandex can honestly make for a really comfortable shirt.

Mother-of-pearl buttons

When it comes to the quality of a shirt, buttons are a very important factor. Simply put, a shirt manufacturer will not put cheap buttons on an expensive shirt, nor will they put expensive buttons on a cheap, high quality shirt. Plastic buttons are functional and durable, but have little impact on appearance and will melt in a hot iron. They are the most used buttons on the market and are a fraction of the price of better alternatives.

 The best alternative is mother-of-pearl buttons, which are natural, beautiful, heat resistant and have a great feel. Their natural lustre and unique look is rare and cannot be replicated by other buttons. There are many types of natural shells that can be made into buttons, each with its own special look. However, it is important to note that pearl oyster buttons are prone to cracking if they are too thin. Other types of buttons include cow horn buttons, wooden buttons, coconut buttons and metal buttons. All of these require care and are available in both natural and man-made forms.

Neat buttonholes.

Buttonholes are neatly finished by machine stitching. The more stitches the better and stitch around the cut to add strength in areas prone to wear. The seam allowance should match the size of the buttons to prevent thread fraying.

Hand-stitched cuffs

As with collars, cuffs are very clever and special. Cuffs with fusion pads can be sewn quickly on a sewing machine and it is possible to do everything in one go. These cuffs are acceptable for a good shirt. If you want them to be good shirts, a bevelled lining must be sewn by hand. The lining adds the necessary stiffness and structure to the shirt, while remaining soft and flexible. A good tailor is needed to control the three layers of fabric that make up the hand-sewn cuffs, each layer should be slightly smaller than the top fabric to create a barrel shape.

Pattern Matching.

Do you notice the pockets in this picture? Tip. Look at the seam allowances. If pattern matching is done well, it is a less noticeable part of a quality shirt. If the pattern match is done well, it can go unnoticed. But if pattern matching is done poorly, or not at all, you will notice it. Pattern matching can be done on many levels.

 Plaid patterns in particular are very difficult to match because the whole garment has to be balanced. Most manufacturers place pockets on the diagonal to avoid pattern matching. If there are two pockets, check that the pattern is cut in a mirror image, or from another part of the fabric, to keep costs down. Also note if the pattern is the same on both necklines and if it matches at the front. For both garments, the stripes on the back placket should also be the same. For example, if a palm tree is depicted, is it oriented correctly? For example, if a palm tree is depicted, is it oriented correctly? High-end shirts tend not to use these cost-cutting methods. The most important thing to consider when matching patterns is the waste of fabric. On the other hand, it takes a very skilled cutter and seamstress to be able to place the pattern on all elements of the shirt.

DETAILS

It's not just materials that make great menswear, but also a variety of small details. It's the nuances of design that tell the story of a man's character. Today's menswear is so simplified that the details get lost. In the food industry, for example, the more mass production, the more flavour is lost and everything tastes the same. But the point of food is taste; the point of menswear is detail. It is these details that make its style.

Details include the following

Shape - collar, cuffs, fit.

Stitching - thick, thin, contrasting colours, new threads.

Fabrics - plain, textured, printed, jacquard.

Finishing - buttons, laces, reinforcement.

Inspiration.

A shirt should be more than the fabric on the back. It is very important that it expresses who you are. To do so, you need to understand what you stand for, what you do and how you live your life. We create a style that fits your story. Then we take inspiration from that story and turn it into a shirt.

Good design

Good design makes you feel good. It expresses who you are. The right design makes everything easier. We focus on the design first and the rest is just good. We feel that shirts that are tailored or short and not tucked in are losing the essence of the garment. To use an analogy, there is no point obsessing over the colour of a house and then painting it the same colour as all the others. You should look for clothing shops that focus on design in this area.

An essential part of every man's wardrobe

If there is one piece of clothing that absolutely must be in every man's wardrobe, it is an impeccably tailored white shirt. The white shirt is the ideal multi-tasker, the epitome of simplicity and versatility. It works in any social situation. A white shirt can easily be dressed up or down. It can be worn for everything from business meetings to weddings and from casual dinners to a night out with friends. This versatile garment is a smart style choice.

Avoid stretchy shirts and unironed shirts.

Elastic shirts are best avoided because they are made of Lycra or other synthetic fibres that are stretchy. These fibres break down easily with bleach, causing the shirt to wrinkle and lose its shape. Invest in a good quality 100% cotton white shirt and you will be rewarded with garments that are longer lasting, more durable and comfortable to wear. Pure cotton makes the shirt crisp, smooth, luxurious and soft against the skin. Here's why we don't make shirts without ironing.

Wearing.

White shirts are always great for the office, whether worn under a sharp navy suit or paired with business casual chinos or a slim-fitting black blazer. Give your white shirt a refined wool tie and a well-fitting jacket and you'll always look polished.

With additional details such as a detachable collar, French cuffs and a wing collar, worn formally, the white shirt is unrivalled in black or white tie matters. Nothing bridges the gap between sharp elegance and modernity like a white shirt.

Dress

As well as looking professional, a great white shirt also has the flexibility to dominate your casual wardrobe. Roll up the sleeves, leave the neck open, and pair the white shirt with jeans or chinos. This American uniform has stood the test of time. The perfect white shirt is always a good investment.

Royal Oxford.

The Royal Oxford can be seen as the handsome cousin of the classic oxford. Slight variations in the weave make the difference; although there is a basic structural similarity between the two weaves, the Royal Oxford is constructed by a 2-3-2 structure. This creates an elegant looking fabric with a unique sheen and texture. Royal Oxford shirts are recommended for business casual and formal wear occasions.